1st Day of Not Surfing
What I learned after resigning to not stand up and just belly board for an entire session.
I love experimenting with constraints, and discovering what results when a key component is removed from a process.
Today, I removed the standing up in surfing, based on advice heard from an old friend, and had the best session of my short time surfing!
Start with the right beach at the right time, with waves that are fit for your level.
Anyone can catch a wave. Just takes a try.
Don’t wait for the perfect wave, take a shot at every one you think is decent. If they turn out bad, you’ll have learned.
Don’t aim for all, aim for best (for you). You can’t get ‘em all, but you have some.
Your position makes every wave look different, and can even trump experience. Look for your best spot out there.
Watch someone a bit better than you, position yourself a bit closer to shore & go when they go, to improve your chance
Milk every good wave all the way to shore. Even boarding in shallow water is a blast!
Also, aim for having fun, don’t take yourself too seriously, and don’t be afraid to chat up others.